I am sculpting some pig face orcs / porkers that will have interchangeable heads and an arm. The costuming on the body will be generic enough for the figures to be medieval fantasy or post apocalyptic depending upon the weapon arm added.
They will be similar in size and mass with these Star Wars Gamorrean and Mage Knight Orcs that I slightly converted and repainted for use in Gamma World.
I am also experimenting a new epoxy putty, so one of the fiures with be with Kneadatite (greenstuff) and the gray one will be with Procreate.
Following are images from ny first two sculpting sessions:
Yesterday I got my Reaper Bones from their Kickstarter. I pledged at the $15 Ghast Level – Dungeon Pack – and got a 36 miniature horde of goblins, kobolds and rats. A promo figure was also included. He looks like a grave digger and I will probably convert him to a goblin shaman or necromancer.
The figures are soft and bendy like the D&D prepaints, Mage Knight, and Hero Clix. The detail is a little soft or sanded looking but for the price ($.42 each) I am satisfied. I have the metal versions of the kobolds and will put up a comparison soon.
I think these figures will paint up well and will post results as I get one done.
I am using a pill bottle as a sculpting rig. So far, it is working out well so I wanted to share. The cool part is that the bottle has a reversible lid for geriatric or arthritic patients. This allows me to store away and protect my sculpt between sessions. I can also store any extra bits related to the project in the bottle.
You can probably get a bottle with a cap like this from grandma or your local pharmacy. It is sometimes called an “easy open cap” or “multi-function
1 – Pill bottle as a sculpting rig
2 – Make holes in the lid for leg wires
3 – Insert dollie or frame
4 – Bend wires under cap to secure dollie
5 – Put cap back on pill bottle
6 – Reversible easy open cap allows storage
7 – Works in progress
8 – Sculpt protected and storage for bits
[Responses pasted in]
I was viewing your recently posted .jpgs on your method for using pill bottles as sculpting rigs which is quite brilliant (and thought to add weight to the bottom of the bottle as a possible improvement, btw).
But I was curious about your “dollie”, it looks like you’re using some kind of beads over wire?
Thanks, I am happy with the sculpting rig. It is working well and it was so crazy simple. I like simple solutions.
As for the dollie, that is a new experiment also. Usually I just to wire armatures but this figure is pretty bulky so I knew I could use the metal beads and that they would be covered with putty. I bought the beads from the Michael’s craft store. They are all strung together with one piece of wire.
On the first one, I did not use anything for the arms and pushed two tube beads into the putty of the shoulder area. On the second, I used a hollow filligree type tube bead to make the shoulders. The first dollie was a litte more loosey goosey than I liked. On the second dollie, after each bead was positioned, I put a drop of superglue at the hole of each bead at the wire. Capillary action sucked the glue right in and the dollie was stiffer but still flexible and poseable.
Thanks for the clarifications. If it wouldn’t be too much trouble, could you tell me the brand, item #, name, or what info you can share on the beads you got?
You say they’re metal? (I guess you’d want them to be if you intend to take vulcanized molds from the final sculpts or bake them).
The ones you show for the upper thighs, are those single beads? Two spheres connected by a cylinder?
The whole idea is very inspirational! Creating and forming armatures/dollies/matrixes has always been my downfall in pursuing sculpting with any dilligence. And this looks like a potential tremendous shortcut and timesaver for creating dynamic anatomy and poses. Almost like having minature posable figures to work with.
Most of the beads are probably from my local Michael’s Arts and Crafts store chain. If you are in the US, you can also find these things at Hobby Lobby. They are typically the smallest silver plated, copper, pewter or other base metal bead I can find. I have a huge tray of them I have obsessively purchased (but not used of course) for use in builing miniatures or robots or similar conversion and modelling work.
Brian from 1listsculpting
That’s pretty cool. Couple questions, though: Do you find that having the wire bent/looped underneath the cap holds the armature in place tightly enough to begin work, or does it seem a little loose til you actually get putty on the legs/feet?
With only one set of wire holes in the cap, do you find your poses slightly limited (as there’s no way to do a wide-legged stance)?
Just curious, since I have a couple of these things floating around :)
I put a drop of superglue at the wire holes through the cap and some putty at
the feet early in to keep the dollie standing up stiffly enough to sculpt
As far as the holes, you can pop some additional ones fairly easy. On the first
rig I drilled two pairs of holes but the cap plastic is fairly soft and on the
second rig I just used a pointy pick to makes the holes.
Shown here are some alien or mutated plants and vegetation terrain for futuristic and post apocalyptic gaming. These models areI made from plastic Mardi Gras beads, feathers and plastic sheet from a butter tub lid. Even if you do not get to Mardi Gras regularly like I do here in New Orleans, you should be able to get a mixed bag of various beads at your local craft shop.
First, I glued the beads onto a piece of plastic and puddled the glue around the base. It occurs to me that I may be able to get some neat effects and stringly vines and roots with a hot glue gun. I need to experiment.
After glueing the beads, I inserted some bits of feather into the ends of some of the beads to make wispy fronds.
Next I painted everything white as a primer undercoat to make the next layers of color brighter.
After priming, I painted the beads with a darker green and then did a lighter green highlight with drybrushing.
I still have a few more steps to finalize the pieces. I will probably flock the bases or add gravel and I want to paint some of the pods in alien contrasting colors. I will post and update.
If you like this and want to get more similar inspiration, go see Andy Slater’s Alien Plants article at TerraGenesis. The pitcher plants made from melted plastic straws are going to be my next project.
After getting my site hacked multiple times I decided to clean the slate and start over with a clean install. I will be reposting older content to get it back on my site but hopefully you will not mind and some new folks may discover something interesting.